FJR1300 Shock Spacer Mounting Instructions
I'm not making the spacers anymore, but they're pretty simple —
they are just big
"washers" with an inside diameter of
approximately 55mm, and an outside diameter of about 77mm.
Don't make them any thicker than about 1/4" (6mm).
Even a 1/8" (3mm) spacer makes a big difference.
The stock shock is shown in the photo above. The spacer is going to go
just below the spring at the bottom of the shock, at the point shown by the
arrow. The rubber boot is pulled up in this photo, to show the "HARD/SOFT"
Selecting the Correct Spacer
You should install only one of the three spacers.
Do not under any circumstances install more than 1/4" of spacer!
Doing so my prevent the shock from operating properly, and will certainly
prevent the preload lever from working.
If you want your shock tuned for best solo riding, start with the 1/8"
spacer if you weigh less than about 230 pounds. If you weigh more than
that, start with the 3/16" spacer. If you're unsure, start with a 1/8"
spacer. Even just that makes a huge difference.
If you want to tune your shock for 2-up riding, and the combined weight of
both rider, passenger and luggage is less than 250 pounds, start with the
1/8" spacer and go for a ride. You can always go to a thicker spacer
later. The 3/16" spacer is probably good for combined weights from 230 to
maybe 400 pounds. Beyond that, try the 1/4" spacer. If that isn't enough,
you'll need a different solution, like stronger springs or an aftermarket
Removing the Stock FJR Shock
- You may prefer to loosen the dog bone bolt with the bike on the
sidestand, as there is more interference when on the centerstand.
- Since the swingarm is going to drop once you get the bolts removed from
the lower shock mounts, you might want to block up the rear wheel with some
scraps of wood or an old book or two. Just 1" or 2" will do it...
- Remove the four bolts (2 Allen bolts on each side of the frame) that
attach the bracket which holds the preload adjuster.
A 5 mm Allen socket with a 1" extension will make this easier.
You can leave the
preload adjuster attached to the bracket.
- Loosen the front link arm bolt and remove
the rear link arm bolt. Note: lifting the rear wheel a tad will aid in
sliding the bolt out. (The weight of the swing arm/wheel is resting on
- Remove the shock absorber attchments, first the lower bolt, then the upper
bolt. There is a small spacer on the top mount that will probably
fall out -- don't loose it!
- Remove the shock absorber downwards, through the hole in the swingarm.
Mounting the Spacer
Ideally you are going to want to find a friend or a shop with a
professional spring compressor. Almost all shops that work on RVs and
trucks will have such a tool. It takes just 5 minutes or less to do
this, so you may get it done for free or for just $5 or so. Some shops,
however, may want to charge you some minimum fee, like 1/2 hour of "shop
time". It may pay to call around and explain what you need done.
Don't try to do this in your garage with home-made tools.
The spring is
quite strong and the chance for having a painful accident is too great.
Find somewhere that has the correct tool and use it.
- Use a professional spring compressor to compress the lower spring,
and slip off the circular spring retainer.
Scott McDaniel wrote to tell me that Harbor Freight sells a Coil
compressor for about $11 that works fine for this application.
(instead of the expensive shop unit shown in the photo above) He
wrote: "The way I used them was to put the two-hook end around the bottom
of the bottom spring and then hook the single-hook end on the pressed-in
spacer for the top shock mount. I then slid the top bolt back through to
make sure the single-hook ends wouldn't slide off. Worked like a champ,
very safe, and allowed me to do this task in the comfort of my garage."
- Insert a single spacer below the lower spring (see arrow in
above photo), and reinsert the spring retainer.
- Carefully remove the shock from the spring compressor.
Remounting the Shock
- Reposition the preload adjuster bracket.
- Reposition the shock absorber,
and attach the upper bracket of the shock.
Torque to 64 Nm (46 ft-lbs).
Don't forget the small spacer that goes on the top mount!
- Attach the lower bracket of the shock and torque to 40 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
- Fit the link arms back to the triangle link.
Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
- Replace the 4 preload adjuster bracket bolts.
Copyright © 2002, by H. Marc Lewis.
All rights reserved.